This site offers you some specialized information about guided tours in Salalah and the surrounding Dhofar region of Oman. We experiened some excellent service ourselves at a visit to Salalah, and we wanted to share that with others so they can also have a good time here. With Musallam you get:

• Personal service.
• To be picked up and dropped off when and where you want to.
• To go to the places you won't find on your own.
• Flexible schedule that suits your needs.
• To be taken care of by someone who truly cares about his customers.
• The experience and knowledge of someone who grew up in the area.
• A flexible pricing scheme where you can put together a package that suits your needs and your budget.

Read more about Musallam and his services, and get some ideas for tours.

It would be appropriate to think that a place in the Arabian Gulf which harbours miles of unspoiled beaches, rolling swells and a canopy of coconut palms is a mere mirage. More so if the monsoon rains (Kareef) from the Indian Ocean bring the moisture-laden clouds ashore and cast them adrift in swirls of eerie mist.
Every summer in Southern Oman’s Dhofar governate the Kareef bathes the coastline and mountains in soothing rains; carpeting the landscape in lush emerald vegetation and transforming the wadis into spectacular displays of waterfalls and swollen streams. The balmy temperatures also nurture succulent crops of mangoes, papayas and bananas and the frankincense trees that grow in abundance across the Dhofar plateau.

At the heart of Dhofar is Salalah, located 1,000 kilometres from the capital, Muscat. A city that was built around the ancient port of Samhuran along the Frankincense trade route, Salalah is not only Oman’s second largest municipality but also a royal stronghold for Oman’s past Sultans and birthplace of His Majesty Sultan Qaboos bin Said.
Attracting a record 351,000 travellers in 2007 (up from 285,000 in 2006) the Kareef season which runs from July to September transforms Salalah into a vibrant summer retreat.
From July 15 – August 31, Salalah hosts its annual Salalah Tourism Festival. A colourful celebration of cultural events including traditional music, concerts and dance performances, visitors will equally enjoy the bustle amid incense burners, exotic Omani jewellery, Bedu crafts and frankincense at the Festival’s Golden Village.
Additionally, travellers can take pleasure in orientation; from viewing the traditional Omani costumes (men’s dishdasha and burqas worn by Bedouin women), bartering for a beautiful silver khanjar (curved dagger) or embroidered cap, sampling the plentiful marinades and spices that complement the meat dishes to sipping on Khawa – a symbol of Omani hospitality. The Festival also engages visitors in a host of enchanting activities such as applying Henna art - an important decoration in religious and festive ceremonies -on hands and feet.

“Salalah is no longer the Arabian Peninsula’s best kept secret as more and more visitors discover its natural beauty, pleasant weather and wealth of leisure pursuits,” says Mona Tannous, Australian Director, Oman Ministry of Tourism.
Extremely affordable, Salalah entices visitors with its sun-kissed beaches and excellent snorkelling and diving opportunities in the warm turquoise waters. There are also several bazaars to explore - especially Al Husn Souq, famous for its prized silverware, frankincense and local perfumes – as well as Salalah Museum. Featuring a detailed exhibit of British agent and explorer Wilfred Theisger’s photographs from his famous 1946 expedition across Rub Al Khali - the Empty Quarter - the Museum also showcases extracts from Theisger’s book, Arabian Sands, which chronicled his travels with the Bedu tribesmen, who served as his companions.
For birdwatchers Dhofar’s intense forested valleys and creeks (khors) now serves as a sanctuary to over 186 species of migratory birds, with many touching down from Africa and Asia between seasons. Near Salalah’s khors visitors can spot birds of prey (eagle and osprey) in search of tasty morsels as well as flamingos, egrets and black ravens.
Salalah – deemed the perfume capital of the world - equally nurtures a rich heritage, with recent archaeological excavations confirming that Salalah’s Haffa district cultivated a vital trading community between the 12th and 16th centuries. It was also believed that the Queen of Sheba built a summer palace at the present day ruins of Sumhuran – Salalah’s ancient port - once the commercial centre for storing prized frankincense and now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. And in the heart of Salalah, a fenced off region protects the 14 footprints of Prophet Mohammed’s sacred camel, which have been embedded in rock.
FAST FACTS:
The Salalah Tourism Festival (formerly the Kareef Festival) is held daily from July 15 – 31 August, 2008 (5PM – Midnight) at Salalah’s Municipality Showground
Dhofar is the only region in the Arabian Gulf to be affected by the southwest monsoon climate, where temperatures can drop to a cool, 22 degrees.
Salalah is serviced by Oman Air from Muscat and features a number of moderate and deluxe accommodations including Salalah Hilton, Crowne Plaza Resort Salalah and Haffa House Salalah.
The economic Vision 2020 charter will see the development of an integrated tourism complex, featuring five hotels from four to six stars, restaurants and upscale retail outlets along with an 18-hole golf course and a marina promenade.

There are three major locations in Dhofar associated with the ancient frankincense trade:

Al- Baleed in Salalah between Dahareeze and Hafah (dating back to 2000 BC)
Khor Rori- Samahram, 40 km east of Salalah (dating back to 400 BC – 1oo AD)
Shisr - Wubar, approximately a two-hour drive north of Salalah at the southern edge of Rub al Khali – Empty Quarter (dating back to 5000 BC and ending in 500AD).

Salalah serves as the base for visiting Rub Al Khali - the desert region of Dhofar that fans into the southern region of the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia and the Republic of Yemen.
Other ancient antiquities in the region include Job’s Tomb – the biblical prophet, Nabi Ayoub, long revered by Muslims, Christians and Jews – and the alleged resting place of Nabi Imram, the father of the Virgin Mary. Also close by are the fortified ruins of Al Balid, featuring 11 of The Great Mosque’s original 148 columns along with a scattering of gravestones that date back nearly 1600 years.
The Queen of Sheba, who ruled the kingdom of Yemen and Eritrea in the 10th century B.C, was known to have travelled to Dhofar to buy her frankincense. Her summer palace was reputed to have been built in the ancient city of Sumhuran, near present day Salalah.
Jebel Samhan - the eastern mountain range in Dhofar - is believed to shelter Arabia’s largest population of Arabian leopards.

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For nearly 5,000 years a rather unsightly Boswellia tree, which produces a heavenly fragrance was considered to be Arabia’s most precious commodity. During the height of its popularity the Boswellia – better known as the frankincense tree - rivalled gold, silk and gems in value and spawned a vital trade route that for centuries extended from Southern Arabia into West Africa and India.

In Oman’s Dhofar region the Frankincense Trail created vast fortunes and frequently lured adventurers from afar including the Venetian explorer, Marco Polo and of more recent times, T. E. Lawrence – known throughout the history books as Lawrence of Arabia. So revered, it was also said that the Queen of Sheba built a palace in the ancient port of Samhuran (near present day Salalah) along the ancient trade route, where she would hoard large quantities for her own personal use.

Throughout time, Frankincense equally imparted spiritual importance. The Roman Emperor Nero burned an entire harvest of frankincense during his wife’s elaborate funeral. The Bible’s New Testament also tells the story of the Three Wise Men presenting a gift of frankincense (along with gold and myrrh) to the baby Jesus.

Still used in important ceremonies including religious festivals, frankincense also remains a symbol of Omani hospitality. Its fragrant resin is today burned throughout the Sultanate to welcome guests and its aromatic oil is one of the primary ingredients used in Oman’s legendary perfume, Amouage – one of the most valuable scents in the world.

Cultivated in Dhofar’s arid region of Nejd and harvested just before the Khareef season (monsoon) begins frankincense is acquired when the tree reaches maturity and an incision is made in its bark, allowing its milky white sap to bleed and crystallise.
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OMAN’S ANCIENT TRADE:

In ancient times the Frankincense Trail was considered to be the most important commercial route throughout southern Arabia.

At the centre of the ancient trade was the Lost City of Ubar, the mythical place coined by T.E. Lawrence as the Atlantis of the Sands. Not only was Ubar believed to have been the commercial hub for trading Arabian horses the city was also used for storing and exporting the prized gum resin to the Greeks, Romans and Persians.

Further confirming Oman’s importance to the frankincense trade archaeologists recently unearthed a ruined settlement on the banks of nearby Khor Rawri, which featured a tableau dating back to the 1st Century, AD.

The tableau’s inscription bespoke of the ancient city of Sumhuran, which many historians believe was home to the port of Moscha, featured in The Periplus of the Erythrean Sea. Written nearly 2,000 years ago Periplus described the Roman Empire’s vast maritime and commercial interests that extended to East Africa, Arabia and India and also highlighted the importance of the region of Sachalites (the port of Moscha) to the frankincense trade - where cargoes of frankincense would be bartered for wheat, cloth and sesame oil.

From Moscha frankincense was shipped overland across Oman’s rugged interior to the ancient capital of Hadhramaut and beyond into Egypt. Archaeological excavations that took place over a 10-year period from 1952-1962 additionally unearthed the old caravan routes buried beneath Sachalite’s rocky landscape and undulating sands – now known as the Dhofar region.

SALALAH: HEART OF THE ANCIENT TRADE ROUTE

At the heart of Dhofar is Salalah, located on the southern misty coast of Oman– 1,000 miles from the capital, Muscat. A city steeped in the ancient myths and antiquities that surround the frankincense trade Salalah is likewise fringed with pristine beaches, shady palm trees and sun-kissed waters. During the Khareef season Salalah becomes a popular Omani summer retreat.

“Salalah is truly one of the Arabian Gulf’s best kept secrets, especially during the high summer,” says Mona Tannous, Director of Oman Ministry of Tourism in Australia. From June through to September, swirls of rain-laden cloud and soothing moisture bathe the city and coast in pleasant temperatures.

Dhofar is also unlike any region in the Arabian Gulf. The mists that come to shore during the Khareef shroud the coastline in lush hues of emerald green and jade and the monsoon rains turn the wadis into a spectacular display of waterfalls and rising streams. The downpour additionally gives life to plants and trees including the Boswellia.

Salalah equally offers a wealth of outdoor activities, seasonal festivals (including Khareef Festival in July) and an array of cultural attractions including Al Husn Souq, famous for its prized sandalwood and frankincense trade and the Salalah Museum. Featuring a detailed exhibit of British agent and explorer Wilfred Theisger’s photographs from his famous 1946 expedition across Rub Al Khali - the Empty Quarter, the Museum also showcases extracts from Theisger’s book, Arabian Sands, which chronicled his travels with the Bedu tribesmen, who served as his companions.

Recent archaeological excavations confirmed that Salalah’s Haffa district also nurtured a vital trading community between the 12th and 16th centuries - from mosques, palaces and houses to elaborate tombs. And in the heart of Salalah, a fenced off region protects the 14 footprints of Prophet Mohammed’s sacred camel, which have been embedded in rock.

Other ancient antiquities in the region include Job’s Tomb – the biblical prophet, Nabi Ayoub, long revered by Muslims, Christians and Jews - as well as the ruined citadel of Al Balid. Visitors not only view remnants of The Great Mosque, with 11 of its original 148 columns still standing, but also a series of gravestones that date back nearly 1600 years.

On the shoreline of Khor Rawri – presently a sanctuary for migratory birds - are the ruins of Sumhuran that dates back to 3,000 BC. Alleged to have sheltered the summer palace of the Queen of Sheba Sumhuran - now a UNESCO World Heritage Site - was also once the commercial centre for storing frankincense and where the Queen shipped her precious resin cargo to King Solomon; an act that not only gained her entry to the King’s royal court in Jerusalem but also helped perpetuate the myth surrounding their speculative love affair.

North of Salalah is the desolate region known as The Empty Quarter, which fans across into the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia and the Republic of Yemen. Two and three-day safaris can take visitors into the heart of Oman’s vast desert region, including Shisr –confirmed to be the site of the Lost City of Ubar, once the nucleus of the Frankincense Trail.
FAST FACTS:

* Salalah in Dhofar is the birthplace of Oman’s present ruler, His Majesty, Sultan Qaboos bin Said.
* Salalah is serviced by Oman Air from Muscat and features a number of moderate and deluxe accommodations.
* The economic Vision 2020 charter will see the quiet, integrated tourism development of Salalah, featuring five hotels from four to six stars, restaurants and upscale retail outlets along with an 18-hole golf course and a marina promenade.
* Salalah also serves as the base for visiting Rub Al Khali – The Empty Quarter - the desert region of Dhofar that fans into the southern region of the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia and the Republic of Yemen.
* The Dhofar region’s topography is a composite of desert, coastal plains and jagged mountains.
* Dhofar is the only region in the Arabian Gulf to be affected by the southwest monsoon climate.
* There are four UNESCO sites in the Dhofar region.
* Dhofar nurtures Arabia’s most revered antiquities including the Lost City of Ubar, Sumhuram and Al Balid.
* The Queen of Sheba, who ruled the kingdom of Yemen and Eritrea in the 10th century B.C, was known to have travelled to Dhofar to buy her frankincense. Her summer palace was reputed to have been built in the ancient city of Sumhuran, near present day Salalah.
* Dhofar’s wooded valleys, creeks and lush vegetation offer sanctuary to over 186 species of birds.

From visiting UNESCO-preserved heritage sites - the twin forts of Al-Jalali and Al Mirani - to viewing birthing turtles on the sandy beaches of Ras Al Junaiz and giving support to Wadi (dried desert creeks) areas in the Wusta region, travellers have plenty of reasons to visit Oman.

The Sultanate of Oman’s government is one of the most pro-active bodies in the Gulf region in its drive in implementing and promoting tourism development. The government is active in the preservation of the environment and historical landmarks in enhancing its cultural heritage and protecting its fragile eco-system from the influx of increasing tourist arrivals.

Eco-tourism is one way with which the country is differentiating itself culturally and economically from its Middle Eastern counterparts in ways that preserve the natural environment and surroundings.

The potential for cluster development has been identified in Muscat, Batinah, Sharqiyah, Musandam and Dhofar regions. Envisaged in the capital region is a tourism corridor extending from Muscat to Al Sifah. The area is designated for a variety of amenities including a cable car, aquarium, restaurants and conference centre, involving an estimated cost of US$20 million.

Caving - or spelunking as it is called - is a major money-spinner in countries that have successfully promoted their cave systems. Jabal Shams, the highest summit in Oman, is also targeted for development as an attraction for adventure tourists. Access to the summit is being developed, while lodging facilities on the plateau are already in place.

In an effort to open up Oman’s magnificent cave heritage to tourists and international caving buffs, the government is investing in the development of the Al Hota Cave in Al Hamra Wilayat.

Tourists will soon be able to sit in a train and enter the Al Hota Cave, one of the most majestic caverns in Oman, and a treasure trove of ancient and splendid rock formations.

The Director General of Tourism Promotion, Salim Bin AdeyAl-Mamari said the funding towards tourism has also undergone changes as the Government realizes its importance to the economy.

He said, “The initial aim for tourism to Oman would substantiate 3% of the local GDP by 2015, but shows signs of reaching this goal by as soon as the year’s end.”

Reputed fashion and style magazine Vogue, named Oman as the destination to visit in 2008 and London’s Sunday Telegraph picked the Gulf state as one of the ‘Top Dozen Desirable Destinations’. In an article, the newspaper described Muscat as a ‘gracious and accessible face of Islam’, and predicted that the country would be one of the top global destinations of 2008. In the article, author Mark Jones observed that the country that had done most to “give tourism a good name in the Middle East is undoubtedly Oman”.

Oman is at the heart of the Persian Gulf. At 309,500 square kilometres, it borders the United Arab Emirates (UAE) countries of Dubai and Abu Dhabi as well as the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia and the Republic of Yemen. Muscat is the capital of Oman and other major cities include Nizwa (the former capital of Oman), Dhofar (the land of frankincense), Salalah (the southern cool spot), Khasab, Sur and Sohar.
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Oman’s southern Dhofar region, some 1,000kms from Muscat is home to the country’s second largest city, Salalah. Each year from the middle of July to the end of August, more than 300,000 visitors come here to celebrate the Khareef Festival. This is the time of the year when visitors can experience the cooler, cloudy, summer climate with refreshing rains, commonly known as the Khareef season, (the summer monsoon). The city of Salalah is packed with visitors from around the GCC who come to experience a wide range of activities centred on the whole family. Traditionally popular with GCC nationals, the Khareef season now also attracts resident expatriates who are looking to explore a distinctly different part of the Arabian Peninsula.

Imagine a part of the Arabian Gulf where visitors can trek through lush green countryside from June to September enjoying temperatures in the mid 30’s Celsius, when the rest of the region is basking in hot dry temperatures in the high 40’s. Imagine a land where the constant cooling summer rains transform the land so much that you would be forgiven for thinking you are in England’s Yorkshire Dales, rather than the arid Arabian Peninsula. – The reality is it’s here in the Dhofar region of Oman.

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Peter Greenberg on January 2, 2008 took a look back and ahead in hot travel trends in the popular TODAY Show, America’s favorite morning show on TV and the Internet. In this regard Usama Bin Karim Al Haremi, Head of Corporate Communications & Media in Oman Air stated, that Greenberg noted that it has been a wild year in travel - historic records for delays, but more people traveling than ever before. New airplanes, new routes and destinations, and despite a very weak U.S. dollar, some hope on the horizon for just about anyone hoping to travel in 2008. He unfolded year-end report - and a few heads-up looks at what is ahead this year in the world of travel. First, the hot, affordable destinations for 2008, and Oman definitely was recommended.

Describing Oman, he said it is the great sleeper destination, and one of my favorites. You can fly directly in, but my favorite route is to go to Dubai first, then drive through the Emirates into Oman and the beautiful Musandam peninsula. And go swimming in the Arabian Sea with dolphins.

Hotels are affordable - from $50 to $150 a night, and it is, unquestionably, a great place for shopping. Local craftsmen excel in arts and handicrafts such as silversmithing and weaving. Visitors can buy intricately carved handmade daggers, coffee pots, rose-water sprinklers, incense burners, rugs, saddles, bags, camel straps, and fragrant frankincense. Women’s jewelry is definitely worth a look, ranging from small silver boxes designed to hold kohl to bracelets, earrings and rings, heavy anklets, and huge belts and necklaces.

Salalah is on the coast of southern Oman, about 620 miles south southwest of Muscat, and is the capital of Dhofar. Although now a very modern town, Salalah has retained great charm and character.

There are fantastic beaches along the coastline near Salalah, many of which are near perfect, with pristine, white sands and a crystal-clear, warm turquoise sea. Surrounding Salalah are coconut, papaya, mango and banana plantations and the area is unusually green and fertile compared to the rest of Oman owing to the summer monsoon, which also helps keep the temperatures a bit lower. In fact, Salalah has a mildly tropical atmosphere with many stands selling fresh fruit and coconut milk. The steep cliffs and mountains of Dhofar are often shrouded in mist. Scuba diving is a must - uncrowded and beautiful.
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Khaleej Times Online - Dhofar becoming a top holiday spot for Scandinavians: “More and more tourists from the Scandinavian countries are visiting Oman’s picturesque southern Dhofar region, thanks to a vigorous drive by the tourism authorities, including operating direct flights from Sweden to Salalah in cooperation with private tour companies.

Some 2,400 holidaymakers from Scandinavia took advantage of the chartered air services to visit the region during November and December. A total of 26 such flights, one every week, are expected to arrive in Salalah during the current winter season that will continue until April 27.

The Ministry of Tourism has launched a new promotion to activate tourism in Dhofar during seasons other than the immensely popular ‘khareef’ in the summer that last year brought in a record 351,000 tourists, 66,000 more than in 2006.

Around 25 cruise liners have visited Salalah so far this season, accounting for more than 16,000 tourists, ‘an ample indication that the Sultanate in general and Dhofar Governorate in particular has become a tourist destination for tourists coming from different parts of the world,’ a spokesman for the ministry said.
The tourists, he told the official Oman News Agency (ONA) showed a ‘keen interest in visiting Dhofar’s pristine beaches, historical sites and natural scenery.’ “

Frankincense still a precious stock in Oman |
Dallas Morning News | News for Dallas, Texas
| Travel | Dallas Morning News: “SALALAH, Oman – Laila al Nudbi’s dark eyes smiled warmly through her veil. It was a very soft sell. ‘This is the best, sir. This is finest quality, sir. This will make you smell better. Life will also taste better.’

The eyes laughed again, her hands holding a small pile of translucent pebbles of frankincense. An incense burner smoked on the counter beside her. The air was filled with the sweet smell of an ancient past.It’s possible that the aromatic gift of frankincense carried to the newborn Jesus came from Oman, scholars say. The desert nation has exported the precious material for more than 2,000 years.

Laila’s job is supplying luxury incense, perfumes and essential oils. Wearing her black abaya gown, she works every day at Abu Mohd (Shop No. 2) in the Al-Husu market of Salalah, on Oman’s southern tip. Like nearly everyone else in the market, Laila stocks oblong tears of congealed resin from frankincense trees.”

The progress, which the telecommunications and information technology world is witnessing today, shows the importance of services offered by the telecommunications company Omantel. The visitors to the Sultanate will not be cut off from the world as Omantel has geared up to provide efficient services.

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Times of Oman:

SALALAH — The Khareef Salalah Festival 2007 was officially inaugurated yesterday at a colourful ceremony at the Municipality Recreational Centre under the auspices of Sayyid Abdullah bin Hamad Al Busaidi, chairman of the State Audit Institution (SAI) in the presence of Sheikh Mohammed bin Ali Al Qatabi, minister of state and governor of Dhofar, and a number of ministers and advisers. The festival will continue till August 31.

As the chief guest declared the festival open, troupes sang a beautiful number A gift from the heart amidst the glittering folk dances depicting the rich cultural heritage of the Sultanate. Folk dances from the Arab, Gulf and other friendly countries were also performed during the event.

The scene at the inaugural ceremony reflected expressions of gratitude and loyalty to His Majesty Sultan Qaboos bin Said and, an extension of warm welcome to the guests visiting the region during the Khareef season.

It reflected the significance of the trees and the royal care extended to the agriculture sector during the Blessed Renaissance era.

Several troupes from within the Sultanate, the AGCC states, school students, the Omani Women’s Association and scouts took part in the opening celebrations, which concluded by a joint performance by all the participants.

At the opening ceremony, Sheikh Mohammed bin Ali Al Qatabi, minister of state and governor of Dhofar presented the chief guest with a commemorative gift.

The chief guest accompanied by a number of ministers, undersecretaries, advisers, dignitaries and invitees toured the various sections of the Municipality Recreational Centre.

The function was attended by members of the the Sate Council and Majlis Al Shura in the Dhofar governorate, ministers, undersecretaries, advisers, walis, officials, sheikhs, dignitaries and visitors.

The festival, which will continue for 48 days, will cover several religious, cultural, economic, and social and sports activities.

Most of the activities would be organised at the Municipality Recreational Centre at Attin, the main venue of the festival.

Seminars, cultural activities and entertainment programmes at Souq Al Hisn, Al Mughasil beach and some activities at the Samharam Tourism Village would be held during the course of this festival.

The festival would also include special exhibitions with some pavilions for government departments, nine singing programmes, five poetry evenings and performances by the local and Gulf troupes.

Two programmes of Omani singers, three programmes by Yemeni singers, theatrical shows and performances by Jordanian and Sudanese troupes would be held at the main theatre of the Municipality Recreational Centre.

The coastal, agricultural, rural and Bedouin environments have been recreated at the Heritage village, one of the main attractions of the festival. Visitors will be treated to Omani traditional foods; folklores, traditional games, handicrafts at the venue. Seventeen wilayats of the Sultanate are participating in this year’s festival.

The activities will include fireworks and electronic games, acrobatics, video games and car shows as well as camel and horse safaris.

Entertainment activities for children will include dramas and comedy shows among others.

As part of the sports activities, Khareef Festival Football Championship will begin from August 1 and continue till August 10 at Sports Stadium in Salalah.

A horse show will be also organised from August 4 to 9. The second international beach volleyball championship will be held from August 8 to 11 at Al Mughasail beach with the participation of Gulf, Arab and other friendly countries.

An annual shooting contest for the Royal Oman Police will be held at Raisut with the participation of 18 wilayats and 300 contestants from various regions of the Sultanate.

Gulfnews.com:

Dubai: With the beginning of the summer, festivals and cultural activities are flourishing across the Arab region, reviving the beauty of ancient times, art and literature.

From Oman’s Salalah in the east to Tunisia’s Carthage in the west passing through Byblos in Lebanon, people are busy with folklore dances, concerts, poetry reciting and other musical shows.

While some festivals have already started, several others are expected to begin soon. Here are glimpses of the cultural activities that have been taking place in Oman and Tunis.

Darwish decries factional clashes

The world’s most prominent Palestinian poet, Mahmoud Darwish, pauses during a reading in the northern Israeli city of Haifa.

Darwish, considered by many to be the Palestinian poet laureate, made his first appearance in Israel on Sunday since leaving for Lebanon and Jordan in 1971.

Darwish has decried the bloody factional clashes that led to the Hamas takeover of the Gaza Strip during his first recital in Israel in 37 years.

“We woke up from a coma to see a monocoloured flag [of Hamas] do away with the four-colour flag [of Palestine],” Darwish said before about 2,000 people who managed to get a ticket to his reading.

“We have triumphed,” he said with thick irony.